Moving toward the obviously oaked reds, the 2013 ònix Fussió, a blend of Garnacha and Syrah, has a somewhat obvious nose of vanilla, cinnamon and cocoa powder over a core of ripe black fruit. It also has chocolate flavors with some hints and ripe blackberries with some grainy tannins. It needs food. 12,000 bottles produced.

This is a higher-end blend from Onix, and it offers an earthy, almost compost-like opening with leafy notes of tobacco, coffee grinds, leather and hard cheese. The palate is solidly built, with cheek-blasting berry and coffee flavors. Toasty on the back end, with bitter chocolate. Very big but lacks some precision and purity of aromas and flavors. Drink now through 2012.——M.S.(8/1/2010)—— 88