Vincent Dauvissat Sechet, Chablis Premier Cru, France

杜維薩酒莊秘密園（夏布利一級園）白葡萄酒

點擊次數(shù)：7327

The 2020 Chablis 1er Cru Séchet is brilliant, mingling aromas of crisp green apple and lemon oil with notions of oyster shell, freshly baked bread, white flowers and wet stones. Medium to full-bodied, ample and satiny, it's racy and tensile, with tangy acids and a long, searingly mineral finish.

The 2019 Chablis 1er Cru Séchet opens in the glass with scents of citrus oil, white flowers, beeswax, oyster shell, wet chalk and mandarin. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and strikingly intense, it's taut and chiseled, with tangy acids and huge reserves of concentration, concluding with a pungently chalky finish. As I've written before, Séchet—where Dauvissat owns a 0.8-hectare parcel—is located in the Vaillons Valley, but its windier situation and soils richer in active limestone mean it's typically more tensile and incisive than the other climats that make up Vaillons.

A bottling that regularly excels chez Dauvissat, the 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Séchet opens in the glass with delicate aromas of citrus peel, grapefruit, crisp green apples and white flowers, with only subtle hints of the oyster shell to come. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and concentrated, with a deep and tight-knit core, striking tension and a searingly mineral finish. Séchet—where Dauvissat owns a 0.8-hectare parcel—is located in the Vaillons Valley, but its windier situation and soils richer in active limestone mean it's typically much chalkier and more tensile than the other climats that make up Vaillons.

The 2016 Chablis 1er Cru Séchet is one of the high points of the range chez Dauvissat this year, unfurling in the glass with notes of lemon oil, caramelized citrus rind, dried white flowers and smoky reduction. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, concentrated and layered, with chewy extract and an intensely mineral, chalky quality. It's structurally quite tight-knit and will demand some time.

The 2015 Chablis 1er Cru Séchet fulfills the tremendous promise that it demonstrated in barrel last year. It has an expressive bouquet with scents of wild honey and a touch of petrol, leaning a little towards Riesling in style but with marvelous delineation. The palate is nervous and tensile, shimmering with energy which is quite amazing considering that 2015 was not supposed to have a high-acidity finish. The aftertaste is so mineral driven that the Séchet momentarily transports you to the vineyard. This comes highly recommended: an intellectual Chablis that should mature with style.