The label says it: fermented in barrel. And one sniff delivers the buttery, toasted character of a Burgundy or California Chardonnay. Underneath the oak, there’s fine acidity and blazing apple fruit, and once it finishes you get a finely baked aftertaste. An interesting, elevated mix of Treixadura, Godello, Loureira and Albarino.——M.S.(8/1/2010)—— 90