A resinous yellow with onion skin rims. A textural expression, sourced from considerable altitude (550 meters). Salted quince, Japanese pickle and apricot pith. There is both an airy levity and prodigious concentration to this, the dichotomies imparting considerable complexity. A mineral-laced finish, jittery and juicy all at once. A chomp of phenolics and rail of oak provide framing. As profound as greco gets. Drink or hold.

Pouring forth with a brilliant golden color, the Villa Raiano 2020 Greco di Tufo Ponte dei Santi has citrusy aromas with peach, acacia and lavender honey. This wine delivers Greco varietal tones and shows a versatile fruit profile for all kinds of easy fish and vegetable dishes. There is a hint of crushed stone on the close. This is a small 3,330-bottle production.

The Villa Raiano 2018 Greco di Tufo Ponte dei Santi (with 3,300 bottles made) shows a very crisp and linear personality with lemony flavors backed by acacia flower, honey, Golden Delicious apple and crushed mineral. This snappy, lean-bodied wine offers nice length and freshness at its tail end.