The 2006 Riesling Renano Prin Freet offers up good varietal character in a deep, textured style. As good as this is, it is one of the wines in this line-up that comes across as a touch heavy and monolithic. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2014. Proprietor Gianfranco Gallo is one of the leading producers in Friuli. His wines typically seek a rich, lush expression of fruit. In 2007, though, many of the wines come across as overly heavy. Readers should be aware that Vie di Romans is owned by members of my wife’s extended family. I have always viewed education as an important component of wine criticism. An article on Friuli without these wines would have been incomplete and ultimately the consumer would have been poorer for their exclusion. For those reasons I have chosen to include the wines in this report. Neither my wife nor I have any financial or other interest, direct or indirect, in this property.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119

The 2005 Riesling Renano Prin Freet reveals beautiful, varietal aromatics. Although the wine is leaner on the palate than the open bouquet suggests, there are expressive notes of white peaches, apricots, petrol, flowers and minerals to be found in this pretty, delicate offering. The Riesling was aged in steel. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2012. This line-up from Vie di Romans and proprietor Gianfranco Gallo is truly impressive. To be honest, I haven’t always been a huge fan of this estate, but in recent vintages Gallo has made significant strides in quality. In the past Gallo was fanatical about communicating the exact details of vinification and aging for his wines, particularly in the use of cooperage, but he has become somewhat more reluctant, as he found that consumers formed preconceived ideas of what the wines would taste like before trying them. Although it is hard to fault Gallo for that view, it is also inescapable that he bottles large number of different wines and some of his single-varietal wines are made in two versions, so it is only natural that consumers might wonder what the differences are. At the end of the day, however, the wines speak for themselves. These remain some of the richest, lushest wines being made in Friuli, but they are also among the most elegant. Our tasting ended with a few 1996s, and I am pleased to report that the wines are still delicious today. Readers should note that not all of these wines are imported into the US, but they should be available in other markets. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411