The 1998 Cote Rotie includes 1-2% Viognier in the blend. While it reveals the vintage's dry tannin and austerity, there is no doubting its bacon fat, honeysuckle, and black currant-scented nose. As the wine sat in the glass, floral, raspberry, and peppery notes emerged. Cellar this 1998 for another year or two and drink it over the following 12-15. This firm continues to evolve, with major investments in the cellar taking place. Readers should not assume that Vidal-Fleury represents the second label of its famous proprietor, Marcel Guigal. This house has a separate identity, and has been admirably managed by Jean-Pierre Rochias since Guigal acquired it in the mid-eighties. The release of Vidal-Fleury's wines is somewhat unusual, with some of the red wine cuvees held back for a number of years (i.e., the 1996 Cornas). Nevertheless, this is an undeniable source for top-notch values, particularly their southern Rhone reds from Cotes du Ventoux, Cotes du Rhone-Villages, Vacqueyras, and Cotes du Rhone.Importer: William Deutsch and Sons, White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-WINE