The spice-scented 2001 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru expands in the attack, exhibiting poached pear flavors, before tightening to reveal a lemony, short finish. Drink it over the next 2-3 years. "Given what Mother Nature did to us, the 2001 vintage cannot be great." With that pronouncement, Jean-Marie Guffens, the most forthright producer in Burgundy, began his discourse on the vintage. Overall, Guffens views 2001 as being at the quality level of 1998, with Chablis fairing the worst. "Officially, I score the 2001 Chablis at 12/20, but only after having noticed that everybody gets really angry with me when I say the truth," said Guffens with a sarcastic laugh. He later added that he would score the 2001 whites from the Cote de Beaune 15/20 and those from the Maconnais 14/20. The season was difficult throughout Burgundy from the flowering onwards according to Guffens. "This was a year, unlike 1999 and 2000, that severely punished those with high yields." His approach was to purchase only the finest lots he could find (as well as those he had to acquire in order to maintain allocations), and resell to other negociants those that weren't up to his standards. "I sold back 30% of what I'd purchased, at lower prices than what I had paid.." To Guffens, 2001 is a vintage to drink early. "Those with high yields and/or those who harvested early have unripe acidity, which ages very poorly, those who harvested later had low acidities, there seemed to be no middle ground in this vintage." In response to this dilemma, Guffens elected to bottle all his 2001s earlier than usual, "to trap the fruit in the bottle." Whereas many producers in France are feeling the crunch of the sluggish world economy, Guffens announced that "business is good at Verget, because we are producing less wine, have lowered our prices, and told our importers to do the same." He went on to add that Verget's business model, unlike those of traditional negociants, is to never hold stocks of wine. "We make what we can sell, sell it, then make what we can sell. We are not in the storage business." A Peter Vezan Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42654293), various American importers, including North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910

The St. Aubin 1er Cru is a blend of such vineyards as Dents de Chiens, Montceau, and Remilly. It possesses an earthy, wild mushroom, and honeysuckle-laced nose, as well as a bright, medium-to-full-bodied, deeply rich, and broad personality. Layers of minerals, white flowers, steel, and anise can be found in its crystalline flavor profile. Its admirable finish reveals traces of sweet citrus fruit and flint. Projected maturity: now-2004. A year ago, Jean-Marie Guffens told me that 1996 was the greatest vintage of his lifetime. While he did not repeat that comment when I visited him in November, Guffens was bursting with pride as I tasted the wines. A Peter Vezan Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42654293), importers include: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 848-8910, and a Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-44706293), various American importers, including Bacchus Importers (800) 525-9699.

As the notes attest, Guffens is one of France's greatest white winemakers. The quality of his wines in so-so yers such as 1991 shames many famous names. In 1992 the overall quality level is extraordinary. Verget's 1992 premier crus are marvelous wines. The lightest cuvee is the 1992 Saint-Aubin Premier Cru. Although it is lively and elegant, it does not possess the richness or complexity of the other wines. These are truly the wines of a genius. I suspect their quality is so high it will shake-up a lot of white burgundy producers who have been resting on their historical reputations for far too long. The wines of Guffens are proof of the great quality that can be achieved without compromise. For that, consumers who care should be thankful. Bravo to Jean-Marie Guffens-Heynen! A Peter Vezan Selection, various importers, including Estate Wines, San Rafael, CA, Ideal Wines & Spirits, Medford, MA, and Barrique Wine Co., Chicago, IL.