Revealing scents of peach, pear and honeycomb, the 2019 Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu is medium to full-bodied, rich and fruit-driven, with a textural attack and a fleshy core, girdled by succulent acids. A bit more reserved than the Vaillons, it should evolve nicely with a year or two in bottle.

The 2015 Chablis Mont de Milieu is another wine from Jean-Marie Guffens that has improved in recent months. It offers winsome scents of peach and orange blossom on the nose—pure and pretty. The palate is very well balanced, with a fine bead of acidity, quite tensile and precise, with a hint of lemon rind on the composed and harmonious finish. This is finally delivering the goods, but I might still afford it another one or two years in bottle.

The 2014 Chablis Mont de Milieu is raised in oak. That creaminess comes through on the nose with hints of coconut and smoked walnut coming through with time. The palate is well balanced with a fine line of acidity, but it does not quite deliver the complexity and tension on the finish that it deserves. I would have used more stainless steel here.