A blend of equal proportions Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay, the spicy, toasted oak-scented 2002 Ladoix Les Issards is a white flower and mineral-dominated wine. Tightly wound, bright, and slightly compressed, while appealing, it lacks the ripeness and decadent texture of Verget’s finest 2002s. Drink it over the next 2 years.

Ladoix, a village nestled on the eastern flank of the hill of Corton, is a fabulous source for honestly-priced white Burgundies. Guffens's 2001 Ladoix Les Issards displays white flower and spice aromas as well as a floral personality of crisp pears. Light to medium-bodied, silky-textured, and focused, it is a well-strewn wine with excellent balance, delineation, and length. Drink it over the next 4-5 years. "Given what Mother Nature did to us, the 2001 vintage cannot be great." With that pronouncement, Jean-Marie Guffens, the most forthright producer in Burgundy, began his discourse on the vintage.Overall, Guffens views 2001 as being at the quality level of 1998, with Chablis fairing the worst. "Officially, I score the 2001 Chablis at 12/20, but only after having noticed that everybody gets really angry with me when I say the truth," said Guffens with a sarcastic laugh. He later added that he would score the 2001 whites from the Cote de Beaune 15/20 and those from the Maconnais 14/20.The season was difficult throughout Burgundy from the flowering onwards according to Guffens. "This was a year, unlike 1999 and 2000, that severely punished those with high yields." His approach was to purchase only the finest lots he could find (as well as those he had to acquire in order to maintain allocations), and resell to other negociants those that weren't up to his standards. "I sold back 30% of what I'd purchased, at lower prices than what I had paid.."To Guffens, 2001 is a vintage to drink early. "Those with high yields and/or those who harvested early have unripe acidity, which ages very poorly, those who harvested later had low acidities, there seemed to be no middle ground in this vintage." In response to this dilemma, Guffens elected to bottle all his 2001s earlier than usual, "to trap the fruit in the bottle."Whereas many producers in France are feeling the crunch of the sluggish world economy, Guffens announced that "business is good at Verget, because we are producing less wine, have lowered our prices, and told our importers to do the same." He went on to add that Verget's business model, unlike those of traditional negociants, is to never hold stocks of wine. "We make what we can sell, sell it, then make what we can sell. We are not in the storage business."A Peter Vezan Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42654293), various American importers, including North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910

Jean-Marie Guffens has crafted a sweet pear, toast, spice, and anise-scented 1998 Ladoix that is a delight to drink. Medium-bodied, it is plump, vivacious, and possesses excellent grip as well as depth of fruit. Apples, pears, and hints of apricots are intermingled with assorted citrus fruits in this lively effort. Drink it over the next 4-5 years. A Peter Vezan Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42654293), importers include: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 848-8910, and a Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42843822), various American importers, including Bacchus Importers (800) 525-9699.

I was impressed with Verget's 1997 Ladoix. Crafted from 50% Pinot Blanc, with the balance Chardonnay, it is reminiscent of an Alsatian Pinot aged in oak (Domaine Ostertag's offerings come to mind). Soft floral aromas with traces of new oak nuances are followed by a rich, buttery, chalky, and mineral-laden core of ripe fruit. This wine is a delight to drink. Anticipated maturity: now-2002.A Peter Vezan Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42654293), importers include: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 848-8910, and a Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42843822), various American importers, including Bacchus Importers (800) 525-9699.

Displaying nuts and minerals on the nose, the Ladoix (produced from 50% old vine Pinot Blanc and 50% Chardonnay purchased from a vineyard which borders the Grand Cru Corton) is a surprisingly rich and lush wine for Ladoix, especially considering the high percentage of Pinot Blanc in the blend. Flavors of red berries, slightly roasted fruits and minerals make up this delicious wine. Drink now-2003. A note on availability: Verget's top wines are sold on pre-arrival, making them very hard to find after they have been reviewed. I apologize for this inconvenience and will make every effort to taste them prior to their offering in the coming years.This note is the result of tastings I did in Burgundy between January 7 and January 29. Critics say that Verget wines will not age. The '95s have good fruit, balance and acid structure, all the components necessary for cellaring. Guffens also makes every effort to prevent oxygen from entering into contact with the wines because this can cause them to either oxidize or can stunt their ability to evolve in the bottle. When I asked Guffens about these comments on the aging ability of his wines, he scoffed and replied that some people believe that if a wine is good young it can't age well, "so maybe they should buy bad wine and age it," he said. Another criticism is that the wines all taste the same. After having tasted all of the '95s and having had a number of Verget wines from previous vintages the following is clear: Guffens pushes for silky textures and long finishes, and his wines are generally thick and often full-bodied. The only other similarity (and I was looking!) is an herbal spiciness that can be found on the nose of many of the wines. Most importantly, each wine reflects its terroir. Moreover, each wine is one of the finest examples of its appellation.Note: Guffens feels that 1996 is the most exceptional vintage of his lifetime. I would not repeat most growers' statements about the next "vintage of the century," but my experience in the retail trade established that Verget's wines usually sold prior to arrival, and were nearly impossible to find after reviews have been published.A Peter Vezan Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42654293), importers include: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 848-8910 and a Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42843822), various American importers, including Bacchus Importers (800) 525-9699.