Black cherry, red currants and vanilla aromas start this grippy, ageable red from Tsantali. On the palate, cedar, mesquite smoke, black pepper and red fruit flavors are both spicy and assertive. Pair with lamb, olive tapenade, smoked meats. ——S.K.(3/1/2011)—— 88

This 100% Mavroudi, a regional red wine of Thrace, has an expressive, red-fruit nose with warm hints of vanilla and smoky spice. Grown in northeastern Greece on an ancient site overlooking the Aegean Sea, this is smooth and velvety with rich, spicy flavors and a lingering finish. Its texture and complexity lends it to pairings with more opulent dishes like rack of lamb and beef stew, but alternately, consider its Mediterranean roots and sip alongside a plate of spicy black olives or a Greek salad.——S.K.(11/15/2007)—— 87