Very deep purple-black colored, the 2009 The Celts displays aromas of mulberries, warm blueberries and kirsch over coffee grounds, bacon fat, chocolate box, black truffles and a whiff of prunes. Very full bodied, densely packed and layered, it has a good line of crisp acid lending lift and medium to firm fine-grained tannins supporting the rich flesh. The finish is long and berry laced. Still a little primary and tight-knit at this stage, it should drink best 2013 to 2023+. Importer: Wine Creek Cellars, Sonoma, CA.

The 2007 The Celts is 100% Shiraz from a little vineyard next to the tasting room, mainly sold via cellar door. Aged 18 months in new French oak, it has a very deep garnet-purple color and aromas of warm blackberry and mulberry fruit over smoked bacon, black olive, Ceylon tea and coffee grounds. Very full, concentrated and ripe, it has firm finely grained tannins and crisp acidity, finishing long and savory. Drink it now to 2022+. Not a man known for his modesty, David Powell was notably less humble than usual during my recent visit. That overly confident smirk that he wears when he’s about to reveal a winning hand has no doubt incited more than a few barroom riots. It was only human nature that I was subconsciously willing his current releases to be even a little underwhelming. And I almost wish I could tell you they were. If his demeanor can at times be enough to set bloods boiling, before I get to the tasting notes I’ll inject a few words about what does impress me about Powell. He is extremely knowledgeable and passionate about what happens in his vineyards, perhaps more so than in the winery. He has close relationships with his growers and calls the shots when it comes to vineyard management, recently telling me he had to end the contract with a grower of a fabulous vineyard of ancient vines this year because the grower simply refused to follow his instructions. Powell didn’t attend Roseworthy College or any other wine related institution. In many ways this has been to his credit because he rationalizes everything that he does and he makes wines with a difference. The structures of his red wines particularly stand out to me. Through developing an individual approach to tannin management and extracting a quality and texture of tannins that comes purely from grape skins that are carefully reared and harvested within a tight window of ripening, he creates some truly iconic reds…though even at the more modestly priced wines can age very gracefully. Finally Powell does not release wines that aren’t up to his high standards and as smug as he can be about his successes, he’s also the first to raise his hand to his mistakes. 2008 was a very difficult vintage at Torbreck. 2008 Run Rig and Les Amis were not made. 2007 Les Amis was not released either, Powell admitting to me, “2007 Les Amis was the biggest ****-up I ever made.” In 2009 Torbeck was back on form. “2009 was a fantastic vintage, best year I’ve seen in 27 years in the valley. Especially for Grenache. Shiraz was good too. 2008 was like being in a war by comparison.”Importer: Wine Creek Cellars, Sonoma, CA.