The estate’s 1999 Vin Santo del Chianti is a somewhat subdued, ethereal wine that melds elements of liqueur-like sweetness on a medium-bodied, linear frame. Dried plums, figs, cinnamon and candied orange peel are some of the notes that emerge from this pretty Vin Santo. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2014. Importer: Kobrand Corp., Purchase, NY; tel. (914) 253-7756

The estate’s 1998 Vin Santo flows from the glass with loads of apricot jam, vanilla and spices. This is a restrained, medium-bodied Vin Santo made in a somewhat focused, linear style. Still, the wine retains surprising freshness and balance that should allow it to continue to drink well for a number of years. Readers who prefer a style of Vin Santo that is not heavy or overly sweet will find much to admire here. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2013. Importer: Kobrand Corp., Purchase, NY; tel. (914) 253-7756