The 2009 Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro Semi Secco is intense in its dark fruit, leather and wild herbs, all of which flow through in a brooding, powerful style. Not for the timid, this is one Lambrusco that has the weight and concentration to pair well with just about anything. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2011. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

The 2008 Lambrusco Grasparossa offers up dark red fruit, minerals and violets in an explosive, exuberant style. Today it is the wine’s intense minerality that seems to define the balance, while some of the generosity of recent vintages appears elusive. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2011. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

The 2007 Lambrusco Grasparossa from Pederzana is a powerful, dense wine loaded with pure dark fruit. This is an unusually harmonious, complex Lambrusco of rare pedigree and class. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2011. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

Good Lambrusco is not easy to find, but my guess is that readers will be thrilled with Pederzana’s 2007 Lambrusco Grasparossa. There is superb harmony and balance as this explosive, fruit-driven wine flows onto the palate in stunning style. Its not too often I can heap this amount of praise on Lambrusco, but take my word for it, this is about as good as it gets. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2009. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200