The 2008 Fontarca is Viognier partially fermented in oak. Talk about a wine that has seen an abrupt change in style over the last few years! Delicate floral notes meld into minerals, white peaches and mint in a rich, textured style of notable elegance. There is a pure, crystalline quality to the finish that is incredibly appealing. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2014. D’Alessandro, one of the historic estates in Tuscany, continues to make important strides under the leadership of consultant Luca Currado.Importer: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808

The 2007 Fontarca (Viognier) is a very pretty white, with a detailed expression of varietal ripe apricots, flowers and honey. The wine offers lovely balance in a refined, understated style. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. This is a beautiful set of new wines from D’Alessandro, a venerable property in Cortona that seems to be finding an inspired level of quality under its new ownership and the winemaking team led by Luca Currado of Vietti. These 2006s were already in barrel when Currado arrived. One of the first things he did was take the wines out of barrel earlier than had been the case in previous years. Currado has purchased large casks from Gamba, the renowned Piedmontese cooper, for upcoming vintages. Needless to say, it will be quite fascinating to see the direction these wines take in coming years.Importer: Vintus LLC, Pleasantville, NJ tel. (914) 769-3000