This tiny-production, best-of-barrels bottling is ncredibly rich, and not unlike grand cru Burgundy. There are similarities in the Baroque structure and complex, layered lemondrop flavors that new oak so flatters. There’s a tight, minerally acidity; it’s a little leesy-sour right now, and all the parts haven’t come together, but for sheer dazzle, you can’t beat it. Cellar until the end of 2006 and drink through 2008.——S.H.(7/1/2006)—— 96