The 2008 Mourvedre comes across as quite subtle. Sweet dark plums, spices, tobacco, leather and licorice take shape in the glass. This shows the more feminine, understated side of the grape. Floral, minty notes add complexity on the round, caressing finish. This is a pretty, sensual wine from Tablas Creek. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023. Tablas Creek was founded as a partnership between Chateau de Beaucastel in Chateauneuf-du-Pape and Robert Haas, owner of Beaucastel’s US importer, Vineyard Brands. Tablas Creek is one of the pioneers for Rhone varieties in Paso Robles, not just for the quality of the wines, but just as importantly for creating a nursery of clones from Beaucastel cuttings that are now used widely throughout the region. The estate currently has about 105 acres under vine. Tablas Creek works with indigenous yeasts and favors large, neutral oak barrels and casks for aging. Vintage 2009 was the third in a series of drought years for the estate, which along with a severe spring frost reduced yields dramatically to less than 1.85 tons per acre. The wines, though, are striking. Vintage 2010 could not have been more different. There was no spring frost. Instead the estate received a whopping 44 inches of rain. A cold summer led to a late harvest that started during the second half of October and lasted until early November. Readers will find a broad range of compelling bottles across all price ranges. As an aside, Tablas Creek is one of the highest-quality estates in California that has the facilities and capacity to receive visitors.Tel. (805) 237-1231; www.tablascreek.com

I am not as high on the single varietal offerings such as the 2004 Mourvedre. The wine is solidly made, but lacks the complexity, breadth of flavor, and richness of the blend. Tel. 805-237-1231; Fax 805-237-1314

The 2003 Mourvedre offers notes of saddle leather, resiny, loamy soil, cherries, plums, and figs as well as a hard finish. It requires consumption during its first 5-7 years of life. Tel. 805-237-1231; Fax 805-237-1314