The 2009 Bergeron (Roussanne) is a lovely wine graced with plenty of up-front fleshiness in its juicy peaches and apricots. Honeyed, floral notes add complexity on the oily, textured finish. The Bergeron emerges from one of the cooler spots on the property and is made in a style that favors freshness over richness. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. Tablas Creek was founded as a partnership between Chateau de Beaucastel in Chateauneuf-du-Pape and Robert Haas, owner of Beaucastel’s US importer, Vineyard Brands. Tablas Creek is one of the pioneers for Rhone varieties in Paso Robles, not just for the quality of the wines, but just as importantly for creating a nursery of clones from Beaucastel cuttings that are now used widely throughout the region. The estate currently has about 105 acres under vine. Tablas Creek works with indigenous yeasts and favors large, neutral oak barrels and casks for aging. Vintage 2009 was the third in a series of drought years for the estate, which along with a severe spring frost reduced yields dramatically to less than 1.85 tons per acre. The wines, though, are striking. Vintage 2010 could not have been more different. There was no spring frost. Instead the estate received a whopping 44 inches of rain. A cold summer led to a late harvest that started during the second half of October and lasted until early November. Readers will find a broad range of compelling bottles across all price ranges. As an aside, Tablas Creek is one of the highest-quality estates in California that has the facilities and capacity to receive visitors.Tel. (805) 237-1231; www.tablascreek.com

An intriguing offering (which is sold only at the winery) is the light-styled 2004 Bergeron, a 100% Roussanne made in the high altitude, crisp Savoie style found in the French Alps. While good, it should not be confused with the finest dry white Savoies available in France. Tel. 805-237-1231; Fax 805-237-1314