The Syncline 2010 Subduction Red – their largest bottling – represents a geologically and geographically diverse range of vineyards and the following varieties: Mourvedre, Syrah, Grenache, and smaller amounts of Cinsault, Counoise, and Carignan (of which, yes, there is some, at Alder Ridge in the Horse Heaven Hills). Bright red raspberry tinged with bay and sage and allied to red meat juiciness takes on increasingly smoky, piquantly fruit pit, as well as stony notes as it heads into a long, quite fascinating finish of infectious juiciness and refreshment. Firm and lean in feel, this is apt to loosen-up and become even more expressive in another year or so, which is amazing considering what terrific value it represents now.
Poppie and James Mantone met while working at a Willamette Valley winery, and in 1999 moved to the Columbia Gorge with the intention of specializing in Rhone varieties but also in affordability and value, all of which aims have already manifestly been met. “We do all the things they tell you not to do in school,” says James Mantone when asked for an overview of his methodology, which includes typically spontaneous fermentation (though the 2010s needed to be yeasted -- clearly with no ill-effect!) and low sulfur, but not anything that seems extraordinary in a global context, or that would not be expected from someone playing by biodynamic rules, which Mantone indicates that they are applying to their new estate vineyard, only a tiny share of which has as yet been planted. To the extent possible, at least some lots of any given wine were fermented and/or matured in concrete, and to give readers an idea of the barrel regimen, for most bottles none are younger than seven years of age! Unfortunately, I could not take time this year to taste the entire Syncline line-up, but what follows are notes on more than three quarters of the portfolio, and you may rest assured that I’ll be paying them an extended visit next year.
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