The 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu offers up scents of citrus blossom, crisp green apple, fresh peach and oatmeal, followed by a medium to full-bodied, delicately textural palate with bright acids and a saline finish. This is among the more reserved of Simonnet-Febvre's premiers crus this year, and I suspect the winery may be holding more in reserve.

The 2014 Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu has an uncomplicated green apple and slate scented bouquet that needs just a little more vigor. The palate is fresh on the entry, slightly bitter with a waxy texture, hints of passion fruit and dried honey towards the finish. Difficult to fathom at the moment, there is nevertheless satisfying substance here and the saline finish is very appreciated.