Oaky at first, but then it settles into a very nice Cabernet-led wine. The palate is tight, drawing and firm, with flavors of cassis, olive and cured meats. It’s complex, leathery and dry, and the oak regenerates on the finish. Savory, interesting and not some clunky, overdone fruit bomb. Drink now through 2012. ——M.S.(7/1/2010)—— 89