Crisp and sturdy at this young stage, with a lot of green on the nose: apple, onion, melon, even celery. For a Maule Valley SB, this one manages to maintain freshness and liveliness. There’s give and take between the wine’s acidity and body, with apple, green herb and talc for flavors. Finishes clean and chalky.——M.S.(3/1/2009)—— 87