This 2019 Mappinga Shiraz is very good. It harnesses a meaty core of fruit that blends well with the cool spice that so many Syrahs in the Hills are possessed of. With layers of dark, moody flavors and pinned together by a duo of pliable tannins and saline acidity, this is an elegant, spicy rendition of Shiraz. And it is all the better for its restraint and medium-bodied elegance.

The 2018 Mappinga Shiraz ratchets up the intensity relative to the 2017, adding extra layers of boysenberry and blackberry fruit to its predecessor's plum, cracked pepper and wintergreen notes. Of course, there's a substantial amount of smoky, campfire-like accents from the 35% new French oak used in the élevage, but the oak is far from dominating in this superb vintage. Medium to full-bodied, expansive and rich on the palate, with a long, velvety finish, this wine should drink well for at least a decade.

The top of the line at Sidewood are the Mappinga bottlings. The 2017 Mappinga Shiraz aged 18 months in a mix of hogsheads and puncheons—all French oak, 35% new. Scents of campfire and wood-grilled meat lead the way, but those are backed and balanced by ripe, plummy fruit, plus hints of peppery spice and wintergreen. It's medium to full-bodied and supple in the mouth, with a long, silky finish. Drink it over the next 5-7 years.

Shows a green, herbal edge to the dense, compact notes of currant and blackberry, with a whiff of bacon fat and spice on the finish. Drink now through 2032. 1,200 cases made, 400 cases imported.??–MW??Region: Australia / Adelaide Hills Select to Add

Firm and herb-tinged, with sage and mineral accents to the core of wild blackberry and black currant flavors. The tannins are pleasantly chewy. Offers notes of espresso on the finish. Drink now through 2027. 1,378 cases made.??–MW??Region: Australia / Adelaide Hills Select to Add