Weingut Andreas Schmitges Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese Trocken, Mosel, Germany

點擊次數(shù)：3539

Schmitges has joined the many growers who use the officially undefined term “Selektion” (or just “S”) – in this case for his 2009 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese trocken Selektion – with, in his words, the intent “to get away from the designation ‘Spatlese trocken,’ which confuses people who associate ‘Spatlese’ with residual sweetness, and to instead introduce easily-remembered monikers.” (Crazily, the term “Selection” – spelled with “c” as if in English – has since 2001 designated a strictly defined supplemental category in German Wine Law but one whose rapid decline into disuse I doubt anyone mourns!) This is informed exclusively by green-gold bunches harvested late from old, ungrafted vines planted on relatively steep slopes. Lemon and tangerine with prominent bitterness of their rinds inform a pungent nose and oily-textured, substantial (at 13% alcohol) palate. There is enough sense of citric juiciness to lend vivacity and the bitter elements, even when combined with wet stone in a low-toned, long finish do not turn too somber or austere. I am however agnostic about the aging potential for such a wine, and would tentatively plan on enjoying it over the next 2-3 years, pending interim reevaluation. “My father was going crazy in October,” says Andreas Schmitges, because contrary to normal practice “we were harvesting Monday through Thursday and then just working in the cellar or the vinotec over the weekend, all under beautiful skies, while he’s shuffling his feet and thinking ‘Hey, folks, at some point this lovely weather is going to be over.’ But our forecasters were reliable and the weather held as long as we needed,” he claimed, which in his case was until November 10. Schmitges relates that – in part under the influence of Mosel practices in a bygone era; in part based on “intensive exchange with Austrian colleagues,notably Peter Veyder-Malberg, over the last five years” – he now gives his musts destined for dry wines increasing skin contact and opportunity to oxidize before the onset of fermentations, which he allows to rise higher in temperature than is usual today on the Mosel. He also acknowledges a recognition that accumulation of degrees Oechsle can nowadays be problematic, for which reason his approach to soil management (including deep plowing and carefully-targeted greening); pruning; picking (“paying careful attention to acid-retention but also ripeness of acids”); and vinification (including spontaneous fermentation and longer lees contact) is reflecting increasing watchfulness lest wines become “too lush” or noticeably high in alcohol.Importers include: Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312; Magellan Wine Imports, Centennial, CO (720) 272-6544

Harvested two weeks later than the corresponding Kabinett, Schmitges’ 2008 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese trocken smells pungently of orange and grapefruit peel; sage, lavender, and chervil; and wood smoke. Given extended pre-fermentative skin contact and time on the lees, this 12% alcohol Riesling doesn’t lack for body or grip and remains refreshingly citric through its finish. It’s just somewhat austere and brusque thanks to its phenolic intensity. I would plan on drinking it over the next 2-3 years. Andreas Schmitges worked with a combination of spontaneous fermentation and judicious yeasting to render his dry wine-dominated 2008 collection, one which struck me as somewhat short-changing the vintage’s inherent virtues. An example of this is his decision to chaptalize his Riesling Grauschiefer up to 13% for the sake of stylistic continuity.Importers include: Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312; Magellan Wine Imports, Centennial, CO (720) 272-6544

Zesty kumquat, orange blossom, and sage – along with smoke and crushed stone – inform the pungent, attention-getting nose of Schmitges’ 2007 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese trocken. Here is another 13% alcohol 2007 that acts as though it had 12%. Oily and bitter-sweet on the palate, this rich, well-stuffed, robust Riesling still manages to refresh, finishing longer, with more citrus and pit fruit, and with less stone than the corresponding Riesling Grauschiefer. As it opens, this takes on a sweeter sense of ripeness to correspond with its (by Mosel standards) opulent texture, and a savory, saline, rather animal element adds mysterious allure, even as more familiar elements of citrus, pit fruits, and nut oils linger, too. Surely this will be worth following for at least 4-5 years. (It incorporates a promising new parcel acquired from a local retiree.) Andreas Schmitges has just completed an impressive restoration of his family’s former house as a tasting room, and in viticulturally relevant respects, too, he continues to display healthy ambition, which is fortunately justified by excellent wines that keep getting even better.Importers include: Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312; Magellan Wine Imports, Centennial, CO (720) 272-6544.

目前該機構(gòu)尚無對此酒款的品評記錄。