Weingut Andreas Schmitges Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese Trocken, Mosel, Germany

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Schmitges has joined the many growers who use the officially undefined term “Selektion” (or just “S”) – in this case for his 2009 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese trocken Selektion – with, in his words, the intent “to get away from the designation ‘Spatlese trocken,’ which confuses people who associate ‘Spatlese’ with residual sweetness, and to instead introduce easily-remembered monikers.” (Crazily, the term “Selection” – spelled with “c” as if in English – has since 2001 designated a strictly defined supplemental category in German Wine Law but one whose rapid decline into disuse I doubt anyone mourns!) This is informed exclusively by green-gold bunches harvested late from old, ungrafted vines planted on relatively steep slopes. Lemon and tangerine with prominent bitterness of their rinds inform a pungent nose and oily-textured, substantial (at 13% alcohol) palate. There is enough sense of citric juiciness to lend vivacity and the bitter elements, even when combined with wet stone in a low-toned, long finish do not turn too somber or austere. I am however agnostic about the aging potential for such a wine, and would tentatively plan on enjoying it over the next 2-3 years, pending interim reevaluation. “My father was going crazy in October,” says Andreas Schmitges, because contrary to normal practice “we were harvesting Monday through Thursday and then just working in the cellar or the vinotec over the weekend, all under beautiful skies, while he’s shuffling his feet and thinking ‘Hey, folks, at some point this lovely weather is going to be over.’ But our forecasters were reliable and the weather held as long as we needed,” he claimed, which in his case was until November 10. Schmitges relates that – in part under the influence of Mosel practices in a bygone era; in part based on “intensive exchange with Austrian colleagues,notably Peter Veyder-Malberg, over the last five years” – he now gives his musts destined for dry wines increasing skin contact and opportunity to oxidize before the onset of fermentations, which he allows to rise higher in temperature than is usual today on the Mosel. He also acknowledges a recognition that accumulation of degrees Oechsle can nowadays be problematic, for which reason his approach to soil management (including deep plowing and carefully-targeted greening); pruning; picking (“paying careful attention to acid-retention but also ripeness of acids”); and vinification (including spontaneous fermentation and longer lees contact) is reflecting increasing watchfulness lest wines become “too lush” or noticeably high in alcohol.Importers include: Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312; Magellan Wine Imports, Centennial, CO (720) 272-6544