Picked in the Klosterpfad vineyard the morning of December 4 (the only occasion, opines Caroline Diel, on which such a wine was possible in her sector), Schlossgut Diel’s 2010 Dorsheimer Riesling Eiswein leads with penetrating, high-toned aromas of kirsch and mirabelle distillate along with grapefruit and lemon rind, notes of caramel and white raisin pointing in the direction of ennoblement as they add complex allure. Candied citrus rind and nougat are brought to mind by a confectionary palate impression that hides the wine’s analytically high acidity, and it finishes opulently and very sweetly but with a lovely sense of levity and tantalizing, tingling suggestions of chalk and stone. Like most other wines of its genre, I would plan on monitoring this carefully after the first 6-8 years since I suspect that it may prove to have been most exciting in its effusive youth.While her famous father Armin naturally continues as a trusted advisor, it is evident in conversation as well from continued adjustments in methodology that Caroline Diel is settling into her role as hands-on manager of this great estate, clearly positioning it as one of those lucky enough to receive the special benefits and blessings that can accrue to felicitous multi-generational collaboration. Selective double-salt de-acidification was performed here in 2010 – occasionally even in lots destined for residually sweet wines – and skin contact encouraged. Alcohol levels for this year’s Grosse Gewachse are in the moderate, 12.5-13% range.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300