A 2004 Dorsheimer Pittermanchen Riesling Spatlese Gold Capsule A.P. #20 is significantly creamier and richer than its sibling, with the sort of concentration that can only be born of a combination of nobly shriveled berries with that of tiny golden Riesling berries subjected to frost. The two corresponding pickings – in roughly equal volume – have married beautifully. Gorgeous aromas of spiced peach jam and quince preserve are subtly laced with a citrus-like expression of ripe acidity so intense it manages to handle far more residual sugar than Diel’s “regular” Spatlesen, yet ends up tasting less sweet. Polished, ennobled richness dominates the show, as waves of honeyed, oil-slicked fruit crash in the finish. I’m too in awe to are ask “Is it really ‘Spatlese’?” Certainly you can expect this auctioned wine to age well for two or more decades. Incidentally, readers with the requisite disposable income are urged to explore Diel’s 2003 T.B.A. (from the Pittermanchen), which was unfortuitously also being bottled the day I visited. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300