The Diel 2011 Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Auslese gold capsule represents, amazingly, an advance in sheer concentration – and by some measures, at least, of complexity – over its already impressive Pittermannchen counterpart. Here, honey, caramel, and peach preserves are allied to mango and papaya, and shot through with vividly bright fresh lemon and grapefruit. At the same time, there is a striking sense of liqueur-like herbal infusion akin to anisette. Sumptuousness and unabashed sweetness reign in the finish here, too, and with slightly less of the welcome contrast or counterpoint of piquant and pungent elements that are found in the corresponding Pittermannchen. (While Goldloch gold capsule Auslese is normally auctioned, this year the Diels elected instead to auction the corresponding Pittermannchen and sell this Goldloch off of their regular price list.) Caroline Diel is now the mother of two, but shows every intention and indication of personally staying on top of her estate’s viticulture. In collaboration with long-time cellarmaster Christoph Friedrich, she is both perpetuating and further refining the styles of wine that have come to characterize and enhance the long-standing reputation of Schlossgut Diel. Picking began in the last week of September and most of the top Rieslings were harvested already in the first week of October, by which point there was a significant amount of botrytis, happily largely noble, most of it picked-out in parallel with the fruit for the Grosse Gewachse. Wisely, I think – as heaven knows they have an austere side as is – the Diels elected for the sake of moderating alcohol to leave a bit more residual sugar behind this year than usual in their Grosse Gewachse. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

A Diel 2010 Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Auslese gold capsule was – as Caroline Diel relates – “picked early in November from a parcel with abundant desiccated berries and the must weight of a Beerenauslese, but for us not sufficiently Beerenauslese in character.” Borderline-overripe Persian and musk melon manage to coexist in largely fruitful tension with fresh lime, although the acids here are almost glaring and Eiswein-like. Confectionary sweetness – a sense of candied citrus rind and nougat – along with pungent spice follow in a persistent finish. This will almost surely remain fresh for more than two decades, though whether it will become more intriguing, harmonious or alluring I won’t attempt to predict. While her famous father Armin naturally continues as a trusted advisor, it is evident in conversation as well from continued adjustments in methodology that Caroline Diel is settling into her role as hands-on manager of this great estate, clearly positioning it as one of those lucky enough to receive the special benefits and blessings that can accrue to felicitous multi-generational collaboration. Selective double-salt de-acidification was performed here in 2010 – occasionally even in lots destined for residually sweet wines – and skin contact encouraged. Alcohol levels for this year’s Grosse Gewachse are in the moderate, 12.5-13% range. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The Diel 2009 Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Auslese gold capsule – which was auctioned – retains the striking combination of creamy richness with refreshment that characterized its non-gold capsule counterpart (which, however, represented a separate picking). Quince preserves, pear nectar, musk melon, honey, marzipan, pistachio oil, vanilla cream, and white raisin inform a beautifully buoyant palate and stunningly long, soothing, confectionary, yet irresistibly juicy finish. This might be less intriguing, but is a more classically pure expression of botrytis than the “regular” Goldloch Auslese and for all of its extravagant ripeness and confectionary concentration; it’s far from being cloying. I expect it will merit at least three decades of visiting. Caroline Diel’s 2009 collection is noteworthy not only for a range of outstanding Riesling such as has long been anticipated (though seldom bettered) at this estate, but also for a set of wines from the Pinot family – all, incidentally, now labeled with French rather than German names for their varieties – that in my estimation mark a significant up-tick in quality. That this estate has been famous in Germany for its work with Pinots ever since Armin Diel assumed charge in 1987 and began barrique vinification, I am of course well aware. But only in recent years have I witnessed tendencies to restrain the influence of new wood and to encourage real subtlety, which seem to me prerequisites for achieving with these varieties anything remotely approaching the class of Schlossgut Diel’s Rieslings. The 2009 Pinots were harvested in mid-October and most of the Rieslings in the two weeks following. The superb botrytis selections were all picked-out ahead of even the Pinots. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300