A palpably dense yet (for its genre) surprisingly buoyant Diel 2010 Burg Layer Schlossberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs retains a satisfying primary juiciness of apple and citrus to perfectly complement its strongly chalky stoniness and undertone of nut oils, while saliva-inducing salinity renders its long, energetic finish compellingly enticing of the next sip. This attractively lean but by no means hard or ungracious Riesling ought to be worth pursuing for at last 6-8 years. While her famous father Armin naturally continues as a trusted advisor, it is evident in conversation as well from continued adjustments in methodology that Caroline Diel is settling into her role as hands-on manager of this great estate, clearly positioning it as one of those lucky enough to receive the special benefits and blessings that can accrue to felicitous multi-generational collaboration. Selective double-salt de-acidification was performed here in 2010 – occasionally even in lots destined for residually sweet wines – and skin contact encouraged. Alcohol levels for this year’s Grosse Gewachse are in the moderate, 12.5-13% range.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Lime, grapefruit, and white peach as well as greenhouse-like suggestions of things flowering and leafy in the nose of the 2009 Burg Layer Schlossberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs migrate to the palate with juicy abundance, accompanied by intriguing and saliva-inducing alkaline, wet stone, saline, and oyster liquor notes that were also adumbrated already in the nose. Satiny in texture, this wine’s bitterness of citrus zest and peach kernel – when added to its strong mineral cast – makes for a certain austerity, but at the same time it remains richly-textured as well as invigorating and full of fascination that should persist for at least the next half dozen years. In keeping with VDP Grosses Gewachs practice, this wine is bottled without mention of its village of origin. In my review in issue 185 of the 2007 rendition of this bottling (I missed out on tasting the 2008) I incorrectly listed it as being officially a “Dorsheimer Schlossberg.” In fact, this slate and gravel site falls within the commune of Rummelsheim and is permitted to use the name of tiny but vine-rich Burg Layen. Caroline Diel’s 2009 collection is noteworthy not only for a range of outstanding Riesling such as has long been anticipated (though seldom bettered) at this estate, but also for a set of wines from the Pinot family – all, incidentally, now labeled with French rather than German names for their varieties – that in my estimation mark a significant up-tick in quality. That this estate has been famous in Germany for its work with Pinots ever since Armin Diel assumed charge in 1987 and began barrique vinification, I am of course well aware. But only in recent years have I witnessed tendencies to restrain the influence of new wood and to encourage real subtlety, which seem to me prerequisites for achieving with these varieties anything remotely approaching the class of Schlossgut Diel’s Rieslings. The 2009 Pinots were harvested in mid-October and most of the Rieslings in the two weeks following. The superb botrytis selections were all picked-out ahead of even the Pinots.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300