Predictably given its terroir, the 2004 Dorsheimer Pittermanchen Riesling Spatlese A.P. #13 is both more minerally in a wet-stone way and more vivid, citric and berry-toned in its expression of fruit than its two Spatlese stable mates. Aromas and flavors of strawberry, quince, lemon oil, brown spices and honey mingle with mineral manifestations. The silken, creamy, faintly oily texture and prominence of quince, honey and spice suggest Auslese, but the wine remains fundamentally juicy, with the deft and satisfying interplay of pure, refined fruit and mineral flavors that epitomize high class Spatlese. Incidentally, readers with the requisite disposable income are urged to explore Diel’s 2003 T.B.A. (from the Pittermanchen), which was unfortuitously also being bottled the day I visited. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300