The 2004 Barolo Bricco Cerretta is a gorgeous wine redolent of cherries, plums, spices and minerals in a layered, delicate expression of Serralunga Nebbiolo. Sweet scents of tar, smoke and leather make an appearance on the vibrant, pure finish. This gorgeous wine from Schiavenza is more approachable today than the imposing Prapo. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Proprietor Luciano Pira is typically among the last producers to bottle his Barolos, so these 2004s are the current releases. Incidentally, the Schiavenza family also runs an informal trattoria in the center of town that features authentic regional cooking at very fair prices.Importers: Peter Weygandt, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800; caroline debbané selections T. 323.472.5242 | F. 323.472.5157

The estate’s 2003 Barolo Bricco Ceretta is impressive for its staying power on the palate. Like many wines from Serralunga, it has retained notable freshness in this hot vintage, even if the imposing tannins were impossible to avoid. Readers who enjoy a big, muscular style of Barolo will find much pleasure here. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2021. Schiavenza is another producer on the rise. These 2003 Barolos have improved markedly since I first tasted them last year. Unfortunately the 2004s won’t be available until the end of 2008 so I was not able to taste them for this article.Importer: Peter Weygandt, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800