The 2009 Pinot Grigio Ramato XL is a beautiful, silky wine graced with exquisite finesse. A brief period of contact with the skins gives extra dimension to the fruit. Crushed red berries, dried flowers and spices waft from the glass in this sweet, perfumed Pinot Grigio. Despite its ‘XL’ moniker, the 2009 is understated and mid-weight, yet hugely attractive. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. It’s great to see Valter Scarbolo reaching these heights with his best wines. It would be even better, though, if the entire lineup were this compelling. Importer: Dark Star Imports, New York, NY; tel. (646) 312-8921

The first thing readers will notice about the 2008 Pinot Grigio Ramato XL is the rich, amber color that is the result of contact with the skins during vinification. The Ramato offers up gorgeous layers of perfumed fruit and flowers in a soft, totally style. The precise, crystalline finish rounds things out nicely. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2016. I was quite taken with the higher-end wines I tasted from Scarbolo this year. It would be nice to see a little more attention paid to the entry-level bottlings. Importer: Dark Star Imports, New York, NY; tel. (646) 312-8921