Initially taciturn on the nose, the 2009 Marlborough Pinot Gris eventually opens nicely in the glass with touches of pear skin and a touch of mango, but it needs more expression. The palate is well balanced and crisp, less phenolic than other Pinot Gris with a comparatively dry finish that would benefit from more attack. Drink now. Tony Bish continues to produce some outstanding examples of Hawkes Bay wine and their Helmsman stood shoulder to shoulder with an array of top Bordeaux 2005s at a blind tasting in 2009. Their entry-level Gunn Estate wine form a superb introduction to the delights of the region’s wines, in particular their Skeetfield Chardonnay.Importer: Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines, Napa, CA; www.diageo.com