An ample production of 20,000 bottles, the Ronchi di Cialla 2019 Friuli Colli Orientali Ribolla Gialla reveals a pretty bouquet with honey, apple pastry and toasted pine nut. The wine veers to lean-bodied in overall texture, although there are extra layers of fruit padding and ripeness to give it a more substantial level of staying power and fiber. Here's a good opportunity to rekindle your mom's chicken pot pie.

The delightful 2012 Friuli Colli Orientali Ribolla Gialla is a big white wine at an attractive price. Fruit is dry farmed and cold soaked for 24 hours on the skins after destemming. Fermentation is executed with ambient yeast. This artisanal approach has shaped a compelling and sophisticated wine that could stand up to white meat or fried zucchini flowers. The bouquet opens to candied fruit, lemon curd, dried apricot and pressed rose. The mouth-feel is fresh, streamlined and framed by delicate mineral shadings. Drink: 2014-2017. Founded by Paolo and Dina Rapuzzi, Ronchi di Cialla is an under-the-radar estate that had played an important role in affirming the territorial identity of Albana in the township of Prepotto. Specifically, their contribution has been the revival of almost-extinct indigenous grapes. When they started working with Schioppettino (also known as Ribolla Nera) in the early 1970’s, less than 100 vines of the grapes existed. The estate follows natural and organic winemaking functions with ambient yeasts and slow, steady macerations (for whites and reds alike). These are fascinating, inspiring wines. Importer: Soilair Selection, www.soilairselection.com

This is a neutral and composed expression of Ribolla Gialla with a sharp mineral vein and limited aromas of apricot and melon. The wine is light and compact with a zippy, crisp close. Even the color is a shade lighter than your standard Ribolla Gialla.——M.L.(8/1/2009)—— 86