The 2018 Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes has also turned out well, revealing inviting aromas of ripe pear, orange oil, green apple, fresh pastry and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied-bodied, lively and concentrated, it's a muscular but nicely balanced Charmes that should offer a broad drinking window.

The 2015 Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes has one of the best aromatics from Remoissenet's whites this year, more tension and mineralité showing through than even the Meursault-Blagny, located higher up the contour lines. The palate has a twist of sour lemon on the entry, a keen line of acidity and a brisk, orange rind finish. Drink over 4-7 years.

The 2014 Meursault 1er Cru les Charmes has a touch of the old struck match on the nose (in an attractive way). The palate is fresh and crisp, vibrant and much more precise than the Goutte d'Or, with a long and tender finish that lingers in the mouth. This is a very well crafted Charmes from Meursault that should age with panache. Excellent.

The 2013 Meursault 1er Cru les Charmes has one of the more outgoing bouquets from Remoissenet’s whites with citrus lemon, pressed white flowers, honeysuckle and jasmine. The palate is fresh and vibrant with a keen line of acidity, well-integrated new oak (20%) and a cohesive, spice-finged finish with just the right amount of fieriness. Charming.

The 2012 Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes has an attractive bouquet with light citrus lemon, elderflower and peach scents wafting gently from the glass. The palate is crisp and taut with superior mineralite and tension than the other Meursault premier crus, finishing with precision and class. You may have heard of Pierre-Antoine Rovani. One of Burgundy’s most shy and retiring members, he was his usual taciturn self, uttering all but one or two words during my Sunday afternoon tasting of 2012s in Remoissenet’s 14th century cellars, just off the Beaune peripherique. You know the story here: the name reborn in 2005 when outside investors prompted a Damascene resurrection of what had fundamentally been an also-ran bottling operation, into a quality-driven concern and vinifying wines themselves. Their policy is to buy at premium in order to acquire the best fruit, except for the 2.5-hectare of vineyard that they own themselves. With general manager and former Louis Jadot president Bernard Repolt, winemaker Claudine Jobard and chef de culture Fred Le Prince (a wonderful name that sounds like a lost bassist from Funkadelic), this has been one of the region’s recent success stories. They recently purchased the cuverie at Chateau de Chorey to make the Bourgogne Rouge and Givry Village. They use “342s” as Pierre Antoine referred to them i.e. 342-litre barrels casks for vinifying most of their wines. They have a large portfolio of both domaine and negociant wines that I tasted at a leisurely pace on a Sunday afternoon. And I must say, I was impressed by their 2012s. Sure, not everything hits the spot with such a comprehensive and diverse array of wines, but the fact is that many crus showed very well. As Rovani mentioned, there is a gap in the market for affordable Burgundy, one that will surely expand as the top names become prohibitively expensive for mere mortals. That is where Remoissenet can fit in and having overhauled their reds, it sounds as if they will be working on ameliorating their whites in future years, not that they are anything to be ashamed of now. Hey, and you know what? Even Pierre-Antoine was beginning to lose his inhibition and comes out of his shell by the end of the tasting. Importers: Simon N Cellars, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 977-4476, Bertin Henri Selections, Doral, FL; tel. (305) 392 6995, Cavatappi Distribuzione, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 292 5226, Dark Star Imports, New York, NY; tel. (646) 312 8921, Arborway Imports, Lexington, MA; tel. (781) 862-0515, United Wine and Spirits, Houston, TX; tel. (713) 696-9463, D.G.L. Distributors, Northbrook, IL; tel. (847) 291- 1110, The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 603-1460. Also available through Avery’s Wine Merchants in Bristol (UK).