Recaredo Reserva Particular de Recaredo, Cava, Spain

雷卡里多酒莊特別珍藏起泡酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：2390

There is great freshness and minerality in the 2013 Reserva Particular, reflecting a very cold and rainy vintage when the wine was produced with a blend of 56% Macabeo and 44% Xarel.lo and disgorged after 99 months with lees in bottle. There are notes of lemongrass, caramel, toast, camphor and bay leaf with the classical yeasty notes of brioche and bread dough. It's balsamic and medicinal and has a very lively palate with almost imperceptible bubbles, which are subtle and integrated and give the wine texture and freshness but it's secondary. There are 2,900 bottles. This wine was not produced in 2015 and 2016.

I was really blown away by the 2008 Reserva Particular, without a doubt one of the finest vintages for this bottling. It combines incredible aromas (truffle, white flowers, bakery, flour, royal jelly, brioche) with great freshness and an explosive palate that has pungent flavors and intense minerality and is light but with great density and a super long finish. The wine matured for over ten years with the lees in the bottle yet is fresh and feels very young. Astonishingly good! The bottle I tasted was disgorged for me, as the wine is still aging and will come into the market at the end of 2019 or early 2020. There are some 5,000 bottles of this elixir.

Their vineyard-selection cuvée 2007 Reserva Particular currently in the market is from a great vintage in the region, especially for Xarello—even if this is a blend of 64% Macabeo and 36% Xarello, I think this has to be one of the finest vintages, at least in recent times, along with 2001 and 2004. This comes from three separate vineyards and is always a little riper, more developed, and in this vintage, it combines power with freshness, like in the best vintages. The 2007 vintage was dry, and Recaredo's vineyards yielded 33.5 hectoliters per hectare, when the appellation of origin allowed up to 88 hectoliters per hectare that year. The wine has 12% alcohol and an extremely low pH (2.96), which means very healthy acidity. The Xarello fermented in oak barrels and the Macabeo in stainless steel. The wine was put in bottle for the aging with yeasts in April 2008 and was disgorged nine years and nine months later (117 months). The long aging has provided for great complexity of aromas, a fine and elegant reduction and a very integrated palate with very small bubbles that give it a creamy texture. Most of the best vintages are cool and wet, and 2007 was not; it's more average, but still the results are great. 12,220 numbered bottles were produced. They didn't produce 2005 (they jumped from 2004 to 2006), because they consider Macabeo very important, and when it's not up to the level, they do not produce the wine.

The 2005 Reserva Particular de Recaredo was disgorged after 119 months in the bottle with the lees. This cuvée is a blend of 55% Xarello and 45% Macabeo from vineyards exceeding 50 years of age. All vineyards are organically and biodynamically farmed. The Xarello fermented in oak barrels and the base wine was put to referment in bottle with a cork stopper. This wine wants to keep the traditional blend of approximately same amounts of Xarello and Macabeo, which is more accessible and open, more aromatic than a pure Xarello. It might have had a little reduction, mineral perhaps, reminiscent of the diesel tones found in some Riesling. There are subtle smoke notes, yeasts, bread dough and baked brioche, incredibly subtle and elegant. 2005 was a warm and ripe year, but this wine is balanced and fresh, with a powerful palate and very tasty, with lively acidity that makes you salivate. 11,576 bottles produced.

The 2004 Reserva Particular is a blend of 64% Macabeo and 36% Xarello which aged for 112 months in contact with the lees and it was just disgorged. It feels extremely young with abundant toast notes, aromas of Mediterranean herbs, fennel and aniseed, freshly-baked apple tart and chalk. The palate is seamless, medium-bodied, but with a silky, velvety texture that seems to grow in your mouth as the extremely small bubbles explode and fill your palate. I was lucky to drink a bottle of the 1984 vintage of this wine that winemaker Ton Mata was generous enough to disgorge and open for us to drink, the first they produced, and it was still going strong, with superb balance and elegance. I am sure the 2004 will age with grace for a long time. Drink 2015-2024. Recaredo is a very old Cava house, as they have been grape growers and wine producers since 1924, but they have come to the forefront of the quality leaders recently. They have worked very hard for that, especially when it comes to work in the vineyards and respect for nature and tradition. They only use grapes from their own vineyards in the Alt Penedes zone, which are worked organically and biodynamically (Demeter certified). All grapes are hand-harvested and vinified by them and the wines are aged sur lie with cork stoppers. They are disgorged by hand without resorting to freezing the neck after no less than 30 months in contact with the lees and regular hand turning of the bottles. No liqueur de expedition is added to any of the wines, they are all Brut Nature. All wines are produced from a single vintage. I’m not sure if there is any other sparkling wine producer in the world who works with such strict standards, but what is most impressive is that all that is certified for the wines produced in the last ten years! Congratulations to the Mata family and to winemaker Ton Mata for such achievement. There is a sense of energy and harmony in their wines that is impressive; they are all highly recommended. Prices for the top-bottling can be steep, but the regular Brut Nature is a bargain. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Maspeth, NY; tel. (518) 207-9100, www.madrose.com