The 2010 Zinfandel Monte Rosso Vineyard Toreador, from one of the best sites in Sonoma, is endowed with serious depth and intensity. Juicy dark cherries, mocha, plums, spices and leather all take shape in the glass. Intensely perfumed, nuanced and delineated, the 2010 is loaded with pedigree and personality. Although it can be enjoyed today, the 2010 has more than enough depth and density to drink well for a number of years. A silky, finessed finish rounds things out in style. This is a terrific showing from Rancho Zabaco. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2025. Tel. (866) 972-6246

The luxury-priced 2007 Zinfandel Monte Rosso Toreador is a less intense, more structured and elegant example of Zinfandel. More restrained aromatically and flavor-wise compared to the regular cuvee of Monte Rosso, with more noticeable oak as well as a firmer structure, it will benefit from another year of bottle age, and should drink well for 5-6 years. www.ranchozabaco.com

The more expensive 2006 Zinfandel Monte Rosso Toreador should be better, but it displays more oak and structure. While outstanding, it comes across as a more restrained, laid back, nearly elegant effort as opposed to what Zinfandel does best - providing exuberant/flamboyant fireworks as well as plenty of up-front appeal.www.ranchozabaco.com

Here’s a big, tannic Zinfandel from a premier vineyard now owned by Gallo. The flavors are bigtime, offering an eruption of blackberries, currants, spiced rum punch, chocolate and licorice. Think of it as Zinfandel on steroids. Calls for equally hefty barbecue, but also has the structure to age interestingly over the next six years, at least.——S.H.(7/1/2009)—— 91

The Toreador bottling represents the best Zin winemaker Eric Cinnamon can make from the vineyard. So far, it’s been a complex, ageworthy wine, and the ’05 continues that tradition. Despite high alcohol, the wine is balanced, with firm tannins framing flavors of dried cherries and blackberries, pomegranates, red currants, leather, dark chocolate, briary nettles and smoke. It will happily take a decade of bottle age.——S.H.(4/1/2008)—— 92