The more expensive 2006 Zinfandel Monte Rosso Toreador should be better, but it displays more oak and structure. While outstanding, it comes across as a more restrained, laid back, nearly elegant effort as opposed to what Zinfandel does best - providing exuberant/flamboyant fireworks as well as plenty of up-front appeal.www.ranchozabaco.com

Here’s a big, tannic Zinfandel from a premier vineyard now owned by Gallo. The flavors are bigtime, offering an eruption of blackberries, currants, spiced rum punch, chocolate and licorice. Think of it as Zinfandel on steroids. Calls for equally hefty barbecue, but also has the structure to age interestingly over the next six years, at least.——S.H.(7/1/2009)—— 91