New Zealand seems to be the model for this highly pungent and scrappy wine. To this taster, Quintay’s basic Casablanca SB is easier to like and more balanced. This one is prickly to the max, with sweaty aromas and flavors of lemon-lime, tarragon and celery. It’s sharp and cleansing, but not quite fruity and rewarding enough to rank as an excellent wine. Still, it has its virtues.——M.S.(3/1/2009)—— 87