Quinta do Noval Late Bottled Vintage Port, Portugal

飛鳥園晚裝瓶年份波特酒

點擊次數(shù)：5158

The 2008 Late Bottled Vintage Port is a blend of 30% Touriga Nacional, 30% Touriga Franca, 20% Tinta C?o, and 10% each of Tinta Roriz and Tinta Barroca, aged in Douro in used Portuguese wooden vats. It comes in at 91 grams per liter of residual sugar. It was bottled in December 2013. The freshest and most tannic in this Noval vertical this issue–and not coincidentally the youngest–this seems at the moment more penetrating than the luscious 2007 (a much bigger vintage in Douro), but that may change as they both age. Like all of the Noval LBVs in this report, on Day 2 it showed better when it woke up, became expressive and showed off its fine structure. Demonstrating the vigor and vibrancy that goes with youth, it is delicious as well as focused. It is not perhaps quite as deep as some years, but it substitutes a lot of charm. We'll see where this goes in time–but at the moment, it is quite impressive.

The 2007 Late Bottled Vintage Port is a blend of 40% Touriga Nacional, 20% Touriga Franca and 20% Tinta Roriz and 20% Tinta C?o, aged in Douro in used tonels. It comes in at 91 grams per liter of residual sugar. It was bottled in November 2012. This opened a touch disappointing. It has ripe, but lively tannins and a fresh, completely charming feel to it. However, considering how often I've loved wines from this vintage, it just seemed far too understated for this big vintage. I made a point to retaste the next day (and often for several more) and it was like dealing with a different wine. It fleshed out, became a bit livelier and more intense, but most of all it showed off rich, utterly delicious flavors. If it doesn't have the intensity of the 2005 in Noval's vertical, it does everything else beautifully and I tried not to swoon on Day 2. On Day 3, it was a oddly understated again on opening and the '05 once again seemed far superior, but the tannins kicked in, the wine gripped the palate again with air, and it became rich, chocolaty and more complex. Overall, it sings nicely.

The 2005 Late Bottled Vintage Port is a blend of 40% Touriga Nacional, 20% Touriga Franca and 20% Tinta Roriz and 20% Tinta C?o, aged in used Portuguese wooden vats. It comes in at 91.8 grams per liter of residual sugar. It was bottled in December 2011. Soft and velvety in texture on opening, this explodes the next day, becoming far more expressive, more intense and more vibrant. This is a beauty that still has many youthful nuances along the edges, with fine focus and penetration on the finish. Completely charming, it is another LBV in Noval's lineup that starts slow and then proves that it is in prime time. It should still hold well for the next decade–or two. I tasted it after the 2004; the comparison reminds me a bit of the comparison between the '00 and the '01 in the vertical this issue. I'm not quite sure this is as dense and as lush as its predecessor, the 2004–I imagine opinions will differ as to which is preferred depending on stylistic preferences–but it is livelier, more focused and more expressive. I thought it was the better performer on Day 2 as well, when it was superior to the 2004. By Day 3, it showed considerable power, but it also developed some complexity. It finished with wonderfully delicious fruit. It drinks fine as pop 'n' pour, but you can easily keep aging this. By a hair, this may well have been my favorite of the younger Novals, but it is a close call and the 2004, 2005 and 2007 trilogy is pretty nice.

A wine that has the characteristic 2004 perfume character, with vanilla, almost opulent fruits and layers of nutmeg. There are blackberry and apple pie flavors and firm, dry tannins. Bottled unfiltered, suggesting aging potential.——R.V.(3/1/2010)—— 90

A solid, chunky wine, its tannins giving a tight edge of dryness. Acidity and really juicy fruit make the wine accessible, with great dried raisins coming through strongly and deliciously.——R.V.(3/1/2010)—— 90