The 2009 Vinha Maria Teresa is lavishly oaked, perhaps a bit high toned and prone to alcoholic bursts (it hits 15%) All that said, it is not exactly a lost cause, and in fairness it is wholly disjointed and hard to read at the moment, even more so than when I first saw it in Douro. There are times when it still seems pretty fine, with a real backbone, focus and some of the sexy, sweet notes for which it is noted. Still, this bottling comes at a pretty fine price, too and it is no more impressive (I think less so, in many respects) than the winery’s Old Vines bottling. Plus it has more questions to answer in the cellar. It would be advisable, as with most of Crasto’s wines this issue, to give this a couple of years to pull itself together. There is certainly some potential here, but I am not entirely convinced by it. Drink 2014-2024. Crasto is one of the Douro’s most prominent estates, typically one of its leaders. With a beautiful Quinta and view – easier to get to by boat, more interesting to get to by car – it justly attracts a lot of attention. The releases this year, 2009s, have plenty to offer, but I was not entirely convinced by all of the upper level wines. Perhaps time will tell another story as they calm down and settle down.Importer: Broadbent Selections, San Francisco, Ca.; (415) 931-1725.

Fine, aromatic nose of herb, mulberry and plum. A full red with chewy, dry tannins, seductive oak and lively acidity on the finish framing a creamy body and juicy sweetness. Fine and elegant. Drink: 2012-2017. Alc: 15%. (18.63 points)

Ninety-year-old vines produce this ink-black wine, intensely powerful and concentrated. At this stage it is very young, its superb dense fruit still developing. But the power, the rich tannins and the smooth feel from open stone fermenters still make this a wine that needs considerable aging. Give it 5–7 years and more. ——R.V.(2/1/2012)—— 95

The 2007 VINHA MARIA TERESA, from 90 year old vines, is usually the sexiest wine from Crasto, sweet, fragrant and simply delicious. The ’07 is a beautiful example, with more depth and concentration than the 2006 and 2005, and more elegance than the rich 2003, to list some recent examples. The wine was aged in French and then American oak (which Crasto uses better than most) for a total of 18 months. If I have a quibble, it is that the oak seems all too obvious, and too much of the fragrance and flavor at the moment is oak derived. To be sure, this is not unusual given the stages young, newly bottled wines go through. This should hold well in the cellar and that ageworthiness should give the oak a chance to integrate a better, assuming you can keep your hands off of it, as It will drink well young. Give it a chance to settle down, though. It also will likely shut down. It showed nicely the next day, but still too marked by oak. Drink 2010-2022. Crasto, on every short list for “best of Portugal,” had an awfully nice vintage this year. The Old Vines Reserva is one of the best intersections of price and quality in this report, and the Vinha da Ponte is a strong “wine of the vintage” candidate.Importer: Broadbent Selections, San Francisco, Ca.; (415) 931-1725.