The 2006 VINHA MARIA TERESA is an old vines field blend, one of the Douro’s small production cult wines. There were only 3,800 bottles produced in this vintage, as opposed to 5,800 for the 2005—a necessary step given the weak 2006 vintage. This year’s version may actually have more depth than the ethereal ’05, although not its precision, its intense aromatics, or its “l(fā)ift.” It is in a difficult stage of life, changing rapidly and somewhat disjointed, the structure seeming a bit too modest for this bottling, the oak dominating the wine too much. To its credit, it drank quite well the next day, showing staying power I was not sure it had. It actually fleshed out and showed a little more intensity, a good sign. Although the oak remained very obvious, there were fruit derived plum notes now obvious as well, another very good sign. Its plump approachability makes it immediately likeable and quite delicious, but I suspect it will never quite show the penetration and focus of the very best vintages from this bottling. What it does need to do in the cellar is come into better balance with respect to integration of the oak. The price continues to escalate here, no doubt due in large part to exchange rate issue. Crasto did remarkably well in 2006, but will that be enough? Although in most vintages this is one of the Douro’s best wines as well as one of its trophies, in a poorly regarded Douro vintage released in a year featuring significant economic turmoil, one has to wonder whether this or any Portuguese wine will find acceptance at this price level. Drink now-2017. Importer: Broadbent Selections, San Francisco, Ca.; (415) 931-1725.

A parcel of 90-year-old vines gives this stunning wine. It has so much richness, complexity and concentration. It’s dense with dried plums, black figs and lifted by acidity that seems to come right from the base of the wine. It is worth aging 4–5 years, maybe more.——R.V.(12/15/2009)—— 95