The 2008 TINTO (CAPOEIRA) is 85% Castelao and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, impressive early on for its structure, gripping and relatively powerful in its youth. It becomes surprisingly crisp as it airs out. There is not a lot of depth here, but that is not a significant fault for a wine in this price category. Elegant, intense and nicely crafted, with some hints of game, it provides value for the money. Drink now-2015. Casal Branco has a lot of brands, which are often bewildering. Some seem largely importer-driven, with Vino Cava’s imports of Capoeira and Quartilho, in particular. If you are comparing, the Capoeira white is 90% Fernao Pires, with 10% Sauvignon Blanc, a blend for the importer (similar, however, to Casal Branco’s Terra de Lobos branco) , while the ’09 “normal” Branco just carrying the Casal Branco label with no other branding, also reviewed this issue, is 100% Fernao Pires. That normal Casal Branco white, however, to continue the confusion, is similar to the Quartilho white (with the big “Q” on the label), close enough to be called the same by one of the importers, also 100% Fernao Pires and unoaked. On the other hand, the Quartilho red, reviewed in the past, is different than the normal Casal Branco red, as the Quartilho does not contain any international grapes. If it is hard to keep up with the branding, one bottom line is that Casal Branco’s wines are usually very fine values.Importer: Vino Cava, LLC, Wayne, PA; tel: (610) 688-8415; for the Falcoaria and Casal Branco labels only: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, N.Y.; tel: (914) 664-3155;

The 2006 TINTO CAPOEIRA is 80% Castelao and the rest Cabernet Sauvignon. It is unoaked. It is rather thin and straightforward, with little penetration or structure. It is pleasing enough, but lacking in mid-palate concentration and relatively unstructured. It does have some tasty fruit and a sunny demeanor, although it is rather short. It could be an acceptable choice for a party wine or everyday quaffer given its modest price range. Drink now-2010. The wines at this estate fall largely into the value category. The whites, in particular, can sometimes be good deals and outperform their price classification.Importer: For all wines except Quartilho and Capoeira brands: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, N.Y.; tel: (914) 664-3155; for Quartilho and Capoeira wines only: Vino Cava, LLC, Wayne, PA; tel: (610) 688-8415