The 2006 TINTO (FALCOARIA), aged in oak for 9 months, is light and elegant and tinged with oak—but perhaps not so obviously as the ’07 Reserva reviewed this issue. The finish is modest and fades, but there is some brightness, focus and ripe tannins to make it lively and interesting. There are occasions when the alcohol (14.5%) is noticeable. There were times when I rather liked this, but ultimately I was not convinced and after its initial “wake up” improvement, I began to like it less. Drink now-2014. Casal Branco has a lot of brands, which are often bewildering. Some seem largely importer-driven, with Vino Cava’s imports of Capoeira and Quartilho, in particular. If you are comparing, the Capoeira white is 90% Fernao Pires, with 10% Sauvignon Blanc, a blend for the importer (similar, however, to Casal Branco’s Terra de Lobos branco) , while the ’09 “normal” Branco just carrying the Casal Branco label with no other branding, also reviewed this issue, is 100% Fernao Pires. That normal Casal Branco white, however, to continue the confusion, is similar to the Quartilho white (with the big “Q” on the label), close enough to be called the same by one of the importers, also 100% Fernao Pires and unoaked. On the other hand, the Quartilho red, reviewed in the past, is different than the normal Casal Branco red, as the Quartilho does not contain any international grapes. If it is hard to keep up with the branding, one bottom line is that Casal Branco’s wines are usually very fine values.Importer: Vino Cava, LLC, Wayne, PA; tel: (610) 688-8415; for the Falcoaria and Casal Branco labels only: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, N.Y.; tel: (914) 664-3155;

The 2004 TINTO FALCOARIA is smooth and lushly textured, but finishes a bit tight, with some grip. The tannins give this some support and energy. With air, it expands nicely in the glass, fleshing out a bit and becoming more intense. Drink now-2012. The wines at this estate fall largely into the value category. The whites, in particular, can be good deals that outperform their modest price class.Importer: For all wines except Quartilho and Capoeira brands: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, N.Y.; tel: (914) 664-3155; for Quartilho and Capoeira wines only: Vino Cava, LLC, Wayne, PA; tel: (610) 688-8415