The nose of the 2016 Vendimia Seleccionada reveals abundant lactic notes, a twist of cereal-like aromas and some ashy balsamic notes. As with the rest of the wines, it has a modern profile, nicely crafted and with generous oak, which is mostly noticeable on the palate. It has moderate alcohol and a sweet touch on the finish. 15,000 bottles were filled in May 2018 after 15 months in barrel.

The 2010 Pico Cuadro Vendimia Seleccionada demands coaxing from the glass at this early stage with black cherries, licorice and blueberry jam reluctantly unfurling with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins on the entry. It is very nascent: primal, licorice-infused black fruits with slightly coarse tannins that will need time to be subsumed, although it has a very fine white pepper finish that might well end up defining its personality. Drink 2015-2025. I visited Pico Cuadro, apparently the smallest bodega member of the Consejo Regulador, to meet winemaker Felipe Castrillo Martin (no relation). When he began in 2004, the production was just 12,000 bottles, although it has since expanded. He does not own vineyards but sources from growers under contract from around Ribera del Duero under which he manages the vines throughout the growing season. The wine is fermented in nine wooden vats in the winery located in Quintanilla de Onesimo. I found this address to be a good source of well-crafted wines.Importer: Classic Wine Selections, Stamford, CT; tel. (203) 975-2522

The 2009 Pico Cuadro Vendimia Seleccionada will spend 22 months in barrel. Pain grille, mineral, Asian spices, espresso, and assorted black fruits inform the nose of this rich, layered, complex, pleasure-bent offering. It exhibits outstanding volume and a lengthy fruit-filled finish suggesting that it will reward 4-5 years of additional cellaring and offer a drinking window extending from 2015 to 2024. Bodegas Pico Cuadro is an impressive newcomer to these pages. It is a family-owned winery that began operations in 2004 with 12 acres of vines ranging from 20 to 90+ years of age. Felipe Castrillo is the man in charge of the cellar and the originator of the project. Four of the 5 wines are barrel samples from the great 2009 vintage in Ribera del Duero with the wines composed of 100% Tempranillo raised in French oak.Importer: Classic Wine Selections, Stamford, CT; Tel. (203) 975-2522

Spicy nose of blackberry, toasty new oak, currants, brioche and vanilla. Lovely rich fruit with integrated tannins and spice. Full, lively palate showing generosity.