The 2010 Pico Cuadro Vendimia Seleccionada demands coaxing from the glass at this early stage with black cherries, licorice and blueberry jam reluctantly unfurling with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins on the entry. It is very nascent: primal, licorice-infused black fruits with slightly coarse tannins that will need time to be subsumed, although it has a very fine white pepper finish that might well end up defining its personality. Drink 2015-2025. I visited Pico Cuadro, apparently the smallest bodega member of the Consejo Regulador, to meet winemaker Felipe Castrillo Martin (no relation). When he began in 2004, the production was just 12,000 bottles, although it has since expanded. He does not own vineyards but sources from growers under contract from around Ribera del Duero under which he manages the vines throughout the growing season. The wine is fermented in nine wooden vats in the winery located in Quintanilla de Onesimo. I found this address to be a good source of well-crafted wines.Importer: Classic Wine Selections, Stamford, CT; tel. (203) 975-2522