A seductive, impressive offering in a challenging year for the appellation, the 2003 Gigondas Cuvee Laurel (80% Grenache and 20% Syrah) shows plenty of sweet kirsch liqueur-like notes intermixed with wild flowers, smoky herbs, and blackberries in a voluptuous, spicy style. Noticeable tannin in the finish may prove worrisome, but this wine is loaded upfront and through the mid-palate. A Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 998-0029,Classic Wines, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 469-5799, Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901, and Associated Wine Distributors, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-8048

An outstanding effort is the 2001 Gigondas Cuvee Laurel. Aged 25% in 500 liter demi-muids, 25% wood barrels, and 50% in tank, it is a fat, chewy, intense blend of 85% Grenache and 15% Syrah. The deep ruby/purple color is followed by aromas and flavors of blackberries, blueberries, charcoal, and flowers. It is a full-bodied, ripe, big-boned Gigondas to drink over the next 10-12 years. Importer: a Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 998-0039, Classic Wines, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 469-5799; Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901; Associated Wine Distributors, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-8048; and Vintage ’59 Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-9218