A seductive, impressive offering in a challenging year for the appellation, the 2003 Gigondas Cuvee Laurel (80% Grenache and 20% Syrah) shows plenty of sweet kirsch liqueur-like notes intermixed with wild flowers, smoky herbs, and blackberries in a voluptuous, spicy style. Noticeable tannin in the finish may prove worrisome, but this wine is loaded upfront and through the mid-palate. A Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 998-0029,Classic Wines, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 469-5799, Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901, and Associated Wine Distributors, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-8048