Powerpacked stuff, no ifs, ands or buts. But it’s also a tannic heavyweight with a clamp-down palate that feels a bit like chewing on bolts. Starting aromas of raisin, char and black olive are brooding and mulchy, while the main act is dark, with coffee and cassis. Better flavors than feel; however, time could tame the beast.——M.S.(10/1/2008)—— 87