The 2011 Moscato d’Autunno manages to do something that is exceptionally rare. It is at once rich yet weightless, with notable intensity yet no excess of heaviness at all. Sweet floral notes add complexity to a Moscato that stands out for its textural finesse and sublime personality. This is what Moscato is all about. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2014. Paolo Saracco remains the reference point producer for Moscato d’Asti, with perhaps one or two close peers, and that is it. I have seen Saracco’s vineyards, and they are great sites, but they aren’t the only top Moscato vineyards, so I am perplexed why no one else can make wines at this level. But the truth remains that very few can, or are willing to make the sacrifices necessary to do so. Importer: Wines Unlimited, Eddystone, PA; tel. (610) 872-1500.

The 2009 Moscato d'Autunno is flat out great, and frankly sets a new benchmark for the level Moscato can reach. This rich, creamy wine flows effortlessly with ripe peaches, apricots, flowers and spices, showing marvelous intensity and magnificent overall balance. Readers will not want to miss this superb Moscato. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2012. Paolo Saracco is one of the reference-point producers of fine Moscato. I always make sure to have at least a few bottles on hand at the house. Importer: Dalla Terra, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405

The 2008 Moscato d’Autunno is a rich, creamy wine that explodes onto the palate with tons of perfumed fruit. The wine’s depth, precision and elegance all elevate the Moscato d’Autunno to a rarified spot among the world’s great wines. This is impeccable juice! This small-production selection of Saracco’s favorite lots has traditionally been available in Italy, but I am told that will soon change. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2010. Paolo Saracco is justly famous for his Moscatos, but his still whites and reds often merit just as much attention. Importer: Dalla Terra, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405

The 2007 Moscato d’Asti d’Autunno is made in a generous style that seeks greater textural richness. It is perhaps slightly less fresh in its aromatics but notes of earthiness, smoke and minerals give this Moscato an unusual level of complexity. This is a unique and compelling version of Piedmont’s famous dessert wine. Anticipated maturity: 2008. Castiglione Tinella is a bit off the beaten track for visitors traveling to Piedmont, but it is here in this gorgeous hillside town that some of the most profound Moscatos are found, particularly those of the talented Paolo Saracco. While I generally advise drinking Moscatos young, I have also tasted a number of four to five year-old bottles here that have aged beautifully, although, of course at that age the wines no longer have the sheer charm they did when they were young. Simply put, Saracco is a reference-point producer for Moscato. The wines are a staple at my dinner table. Importer: Dalla Terra, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405