The 2007 Moscato d’Asti d’Autunno is made in a generous style that seeks greater textural richness. It is perhaps slightly less fresh in its aromatics but notes of earthiness, smoke and minerals give this Moscato an unusual level of complexity. This is a unique and compelling version of Piedmont’s famous dessert wine. Anticipated maturity: 2008. Castiglione Tinella is a bit off the beaten track for visitors traveling to Piedmont, but it is here in this gorgeous hillside town that some of the most profound Moscatos are found, particularly those of the talented Paolo Saracco. While I generally advise drinking Moscatos young, I have also tasted a number of four to five year-old bottles here that have aged beautifully, although, of course at that age the wines no longer have the sheer charm they did when they were young. Simply put, Saracco is a reference-point producer for Moscato. The wines are a staple at my dinner table. Importer: Dalla Terra, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405